Yamadori Techniques

" Yama " (mountain) and " Tori " (to take) . From the union of these two Japanese words is the popular term in bonsai " yamadori " . Literally it means " taking to the mountain " or "extract of the mountain" but NEVER RECOVER .

Sounds more benevolent and ecological "recover" than to "take " . The truth is that we translate at our way and interest and it is true also that this technique  is always looked in controversy as they are unfortunately many who profit from plundering the nature not caring the death ones that fall by the wayside . Others do not move for a compensation but do it for ego. The yamadori allows have at home espectacular trees that has been worked and sculpted by the nature. 95% of the result of such bonsai is a merit of our Mother Earth . The problem that our desire to have beautiful examples in our shelves not is usually accompanied by a survival success . Armando Dal Col paraphrase "The technique yamadori should be done with caution as the bodies of trees unfortunately mishandled during removal accumulate in the consciousness of more than one."

Yamadori technique can be justified only when the tree's life may be in danger . For the construction of roads, firebreaks, clearing, etc. . And always with the permission of the competent environmental authorities in the area. Down with that image of bonsaist furtive. We have said that Yamadori not " recover" but it should not be " stealing" . From these blog we want to give you some guidelines to minimize risks and achieve success in this delicate operation.

Finding the appropriate exempolar in the mountains to create a bonsai is not easy , but once located a specimen fit the question is can be extracted successfully?

previous steps

Parameters to consider :

Substrate

 Sandy , clayey or rocky

It is certainly much more difficult to work in rocky soil . The roots grow hugging the rocks making it very difficult extraction .

Vigor
You'd think that a tree growing strong and vigorous look would be an excellent candidate to remove it successfully , but not always seems to be. A tree in these conditions is moving sap with great force and such an operation would be extremely risky . But a tree that seems to be able to respond extremely well limits to extraction and potting on which see improved environmental conditions and especially water . The state of the plant is quite complex as a condition in these cases.

State and root depth
Then let's dispel another myth that our logic leads us . All tend to think that if we shake the trunk of a tree and it moves to the roots is that it will be easy to start. In contrast, if barely moving is because it is strongly anchored and will be very difficult to remove. IS TOTALLY WRONG . Normally when you move is because their roots are very long and is anchored down . In contrast, if barely moving is because it is firmly anchored not very deep, which is favorable to our interest. To succeed we must fine rootlets at the top . And if we do not we get them. Here's how to .

Aerial parts

It is obvious that we must have the " green mass " as low as possible . According to species is more or less difficult to achieve . It all depends on how the tree respond to pruning. We can always use wire branches down, but we can start preparing the aerial part in the mountain . It is very interesting to know : the fact that the trimming and compacting go " green mass " get the appearance of fine rootlets at the top . It is important to always yank guide to assist in the synthesis of auxin naturally by the plant. They are synthesized in the apex always .

As a picture is worth a thousand words see below is a simulated extraction :

Could from one of these two cases. The tree has many hair roots down into the top, synonymous with success. Instead possesses the above the very bottom. Therefore we prepare the roots at the top to force the occurrence of rootlets .


This operation should last long enough . Never the less . One, two , three years. Time is not important if we are to succeed.

The first step is to dig around the base of the tree until you get to discover the source of the roots . Then we will make some small wounds and apply them rooting hormones . We will change the substrate by a mixture of equal parts peat , coconut fiber and sphagnum moss . This mixture will help increase the water retention capacity in the area , favoring the appearance of roots. If we can not come often to water we can use our ingenuity. Some medical droppers  can be used or easily with water bottles with a small hole in the cap. The water will fall slowly during some days .

Once we have the roots where we want we can proceed with the extraction.

When is the ideal time ?
As a general rule the ideal time is just when the tree has begun to activate. That is, early spring and late summer.

How wet or dry?
Average . Ideally approximately one week after rains . When there is not much mud and tree beginning to activate thanks to that water. The truth is that each teacher has his methods and some prefer to remove with dry soil .


Then,we have to dig a trench around the root ball and pruning thick roots that delve . It is very important to halt the loss of sap by heavy pruning and practice " turnstiles " wherever we operate . Will seal the wounds with mud or caulk and cover the wound with sphagnum moss protected by a bag of " jute " or similar material tightly tying the bag with copper wire for it to act as a tourniquet.

Then protect the root ball Moisten with a spray and protect it with a gunny sack and sphagnum moss . This operation must be performed  quickly and with precision. We will attach firmly set and the tree is ready for transport. We can help metal mesh particularly suitable for this process . Below we can see the main tools we will need .

The transport will carry it out as quickly as possible and wetting the substrate and the flight attendants if we delay . Avoid exposure to the sun and if the humidity was low plastic could protect green dough until you get home .

The first thing is to find the right container for rooting . Must have a much higher volume of final bonsai pot . Not so important angle planted . The main thing is to ensure survival. The design will be much later. Wooden boxes , styrofoam , clay pots , fruit boxes or plastic pots but holed even sides for better ventilation .

Rooting phase

As the substrate, we obtain a mixture with high aeration capacity and exchange of nutrients. We recommend a mixture of equal parts of volcanic gravel , coconut fiber and kiryuzuna (or akadama )  It is highly recommended in planted applying rooting hormones (auxins ) .

In the case of the Sabine is quite common in the early stages go yellow the tree crown. It is part of the establishment. It is recommended weekly treatment with captan and once the tree begins to sprout Previcur replace these treatments .

We put the tree in an atmosphere with controlled humidity. Should not provide excessive moisture. That just rot and cause numbness of the tree. Ideally a greenhouse where temperatures did not get below 15 ° C and humidity between 60 and 80% . But are values ​​that depend on the species to work. In olive , for example you have to use a technique curious . They are placed in full sun and completely covered under a black plastic bag . This increases the temperature and humidity promoting sprouting.

In the case of deciduous trees , in Japan some bonsaists once pulled out of the forest completely buried (including canopy ) for a couple of months . After digging up and show the onset of activity of both roots and sprouts .

Once the tree start to show activity  and if environmental conditions permit it we will remove in full sun gradually . From here begins the establishment phase . Its duration depends on the health of the tree. But at least two years is recommended before starting work as a bonsai tree .

Throughout this process we must control our impatience . As the saying goes " Dress me slowly that I have rushed